Arrived on the local train from Bilbao and took a taxi to my room in the old part of the city. I got a nice room in the flat, in the front with one large window and a small balcony only one flight up overlooking the street. And, also it turned out next to a door downstairs that slammed hard enough to wake the dead every five or ten minutes. The Kelsey’s had followed me to Spain in one way or another. I am a San Sebastián: Everywhere I go there are barking or crying dogs, drunken tourists serenading me at 4 in the morning or swarms of children who need to scream the same name or word over and over and over again! The streets are narrow the surfaces are stone and the sounds unrelenting. I know why they Spanish stay up so late; there is no way they can sleep with the din if they go to bed before 2 am. And then its never really quiet until around 5am. At six they start to collect the trash and then they begin to clean the streets until seven when the deliveries start. Oh how I love Spain !!
San Sebastián is beautiful! It surrounds two grand beaches flanked by two hills. A perfect harbor protected by these hills and creating a dramatic setting for a statue of Jesus that sits on the one overlooking the old city. One the other side is an even taller hill with an ancient funicular that takes you to a view overlooking everything with a cafe for sitting and enjoying the it all over coffee or a beer. During my sojourn and beer a group of German boy arrived unpacked a drone and sent it off into the void. When it returned it did a perfect landing into the hand of its owner who folded it up into a shape a little larger than a beer can and they all went on their way. Not sure that the video it shot would merit the time it would take to watch but it sure was great entertainment and a nice distraction from the old couple next to me who spent an hour analyzing the weather of San Sebastián off Wikipedia. Lots of “mansplaining.” There are nice things about not speaking the language. I’m sure the Spaniards were all discussing Cervantes over their beers.
Did lots of walking along the promenade overlooking the beaches and exploring the gorgeous streets, bridges, parks and boulevards of the rest of the city. Everything is spotlessly clean and I can’t stress this enough. No city in the US compares. The parks are manicured and the public transportation copious. The pubic spaces are gorgeous except for the benches which are decidedly uncomfortable. The materials used in these spaces are granite wrought iron and marble. I never say a concrete sidewalk in the entire country. Granite pavers or cobblestones. And rarely did I see a cracked or damaged paver. I cant walk 50 paces in Bostonwithout risking a stumble over a hole in the the sidewalks or bricks that are missing in the pavement. And, don’t get me started with the streets. They all feel as if they were paved yesterday. I’m still waiting for them to finish Huron Avenue after five years and the streets of Cambridge, a very wealthy town, are a scandal. The rest of the surround towns and cities are much worse.
Below is a short story in pictures:
And, can I pass up an opportunity to talk about the bathrooms? No! Both pubic and private; from lowly cafe to the brilliant Guggenheim in Bilbao. Public bathrooms spotlessly clean! No puddles of urine in front of the urinals like I find everywhere in the US. Just think of how much piss is on the bottom of your shoes. Not in Spain! And I only found one place in the entire country where the toilet paper had run out and they don’t have the giant rolls they use everywhere at home. The bathrooms may be small but boy were they clean even on the trains.
Avoided the museums and churches this last stop in Spain and just walked and drank lots of beer and coffee. Never had to worry about too much liquid as there was always a clean facility to repair to. Lots of tourists and a surprising lack of Asian tourists. Lots of Americans and French. Went shopping for shoes and didn’t have much luck. Everything starts at 40 and I take a 39. :-(((
Did get a couple of shirts tho. More coffee, more beer and more walking. The girl watching was excellent at the waterfront tho the topless sunbathing is better in theory than in practice. I find this years’ short shorts to be a fashion marvel and the diaphanous dresses and mini skirts a gift from God. A free floor show with every drink, where ever you go. I so enjoyed the visuals in this country. Just make sure you bring earplugs for the sounds at night!
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