Another gray day. And despite my mother’s fears that the flooding Seine would put our lives in danger we made our way to the Gare D’Orsay Museum without having to swim. The river is 7 meters above normal but still far from overflowing its banks.
Yet another museum filled with masterpieces. Highlights were the many Degas and Manet. An entire room of Toulouse-Lautre! It’s very hard to take it all in and you want to study each piece. Finally you must do triage and only spend time with favorites. It was great fun to see in the flesh so many works that I use in my classes. While the museum was busy it’s so large that the croutes are not overwhelming. The building used to be a train station and it was converted into a museum in the 80’s so the style is post modern but not so much that it looks dated like the Pompidou. The gian clocks that still tell time seen from the inside are so impressive and really make you fell small. Its great to see the minute hand move.
The view of the flooding seine below with the city in the background was almost as impressive as the art and a wonderful respite from the art.
One of my favorites was the painting above. The luminosity of the light on the floor was just breathtaking. Another was the single asparagus below given to Charles Ephrussi after he purchased a painting of a bundle of asparagus for 1000 francs. Manet had only asked for 600 francs and sent this gift to Charles with a note saying one of the asparagus stalks had slipped from the bundle. I had read this anecdote in the book the Hare with the Amber Eyes last summer. After relishing that book seeing the actual painting was just so exciting. I’m so glad it’s not locked away in some private collection.
The restaurant dominated by one of the clocks was decorated beautifully and provided a nice place to meet Brian, quite by accident, for a coffee break. I am addicted to double espressos which seem to have little effect on me other than for their delicious flavor. The first sip or two is transformative. Notice in the video belove the back mirrored wall of restaurant. The people and events reflected are so much like the impressionist art we had just looked at. That and the backs of the chairs, like the dabs of color from a Monet. My hat is off to the designer who did this room.
The D’orsay was filled with just too many masterpieces. Even with coffee breaks it was still to much to take in. It was good I had bought tickets online as we could jump a pretty hefty line. It was also good we saw it today as they closed it for two days after because of precautions taken for the flooding Seine across the street.
The building is a repurposed train station and the architects did an excellent job. Much nicer than the Pompidou. The crowds are really getting on my nerves. Some of the greatest art on the planet and all people are doing is taking photos. The artificial shutter snap sound never stops. Brian followed around a woman who was obsessively photographing every work. She never stopped, even for a second, to look at the paintings. She was the rule rather than the exception.
The mirrors against the back walls make an impressionist image of the room.
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