Today was devoted to food. I began walking to La Rhamba to have coffee, read the papers (all about Trump – what else?) smoke and watch people. La Rhamba wa once a small stream outside of the old city walls that was paved over and became the premiere walking street of the city. Today it is inundated with tourists and tourist junk but despite that it is still a great linear space and always filled with people. The cappuccino was overpriced but good and my chair had a cushion. And there was a never ending supply of passersby.

Breakfast on La Rhamba.

I never get bored watching the world go by and between The NY Times and the Boston Globe, both downloaded to my IPad, and the never ending stream of people walking by I sat, smoked, and was quite contented. BTW all you health nuts. Last year I smoked in Europe and didn’t have another cigarette after I stepped off the plane back in Boston. Here in Spain one is not considered a child molester if one enjoys tobacco outdoors at a cafe or restaurant. I have repeatedly offered to move when someone sat near enough to be bothered by my smoke and so far non have voiced any complaints at all. Cigs are $5 a pack here so I’m content to indulge my vice until I return home.

When I ran out of news to read and my rear became numb I decided to. Are my way to the Mercado de la Boqueria, the largest old food market in the city.

Cured meats.

I had already been here once but on a Sunday and it was jammed, today while still busy, was much less frenetic with quite a few of the stalls closed. There was still plenty to see with just about anything you can imagine to eat in a plethora of colors, shapes and varieties.

From the sea.

Lots of artfully arranged, fish and cured ham. Serano ham is the specialty of Catalonia and ranges in price from 60 – 250 euros a kilo. Well out of my price range, I could still indulge with little paper cones of the delicacy for sale at every stall selling the meat. they were priced from 2-6 euros and were a delight to eat as I toured the market. BTW its a lot like prosciutto tho it seems saltier. That and slices of chorizo were always in hand. The fish was the best and there were numerous counters selling cooked fish of all shapes and sizes. I managed to eat a one in this market and at another in market closer to my room. It’s quite a feat to get a seat during prime time.

Eatin’ at the counter.

Luckily I eat either unfashionably early or late so I’ve managed to squeeze in. The seafood is simply cooked and fabulous. Most of Asia has decamped to Spain this month and these tourists were indulging without restraint. Must have been very cheap for them especially the Japanese. I tried to do my part and keep up. I wandered and photographed making, so far, some of my best pictures of the trip.

Confections of all kinds.

It’s not difficult when the subject matter is so artfully arranged and colorful.

All kinds of hot spices.

Already cooked and ready to take away.

Dried fruit.

When I had my visual fill and purchased som candied nuts I made my way to: Jardins de Rubio I Llunch a paved garden surround by gothic arches and twin monumental stairways that were so exquisite that had to do my best to sketch them. Not once but on three separate occasions. I visited this place on three different days and drew each time. The space is surrounded by the Library of Catalonia, The institute of Catalan studies and what appears to be an art school because I see lots of kids with sketch pads doing the same as me but going in and out of the one of the buildings. There is a little cafe with a perfect view of one of the stairways and I managed to snag a table with the best view possible. One day for coffee and the second day for lunch.

Lunch: anchovies, tomato, mozzarella, and arugula salad.

The lunch was a fabulously presented tomato and mozzarella salad and a plate of sardines and olives chased down with a glass of beer. I sat for two hours eating, drawing, smoking and watching the students come and go. Oh I remember having days like they do just hanging out and passing the day away. Now I’ve finally got it again too. On my way out I passed by the library and went in for a look what a magnificent space.

The Library.

I thought it couldn’t get any better when just a few steps away I looked in on a gorgeous courtyard surrounded by two story covered arched galleries.

This group of building a spaces were my favorite in Barcelona.
It was just a short walk to the ultra modern Barcelona Contemporary Art Museum A blindingly white beautiful composition overlooking a large plaza that has been commandeered by the skateboard set and which you walk thru at the risk of being flattened by a kid with a backwards baseball cap speeding by or leaping up to skid across a flat bench.

Museum of Contemporary Art

Just how do they get the board to leap into the air with them? Against my better judgement I paid for an entry to the exhibitions which as I expected were awful. No art just political propaganda. Progressive politics, but never the less these people haven’t heard of the word metaphor or poetry. I mentioned this at the front desk on my way out and was gently informed that the mandate of the museum was political “art.” I asked if there was any non political contemporary art in the city and was informed that Barcelona was a city know for its politics and that included the art as well.

Slowly made it back to my room and when I asked Juan for a dinner suggestion he sent me to a a Bar called el Porto.

I had what he had.

It was a tiny space that served beer, wine, fried sardines and a fabulous tomato, onion, and olive salad. I had both plates and a beer standing at the bar with a mixture of old grizzly locals and wide eyed tourists like me unsure if they were supposed to be there. It was cheap and good.

What a day!!!!!!! 12,761 step but whose counting.

Thursday
Went for a 23,913 step walk today finding my way to Barcelona’s answer London’s gherkin.

Barcelona’s Gherkin

Right next to it was a new library building that I also enjoyed including a small exhibition devoted to utensils for cooking and eating.

Cooking and serving

Very lovely design and I took a few snaps in case i wanted to buy something when I get back home.

Serving dishes.

The day started out grey and finally begin a downpore that would not quit till the moment I finally found a shop selling umbrellas. When I walked out of the shop new purchase in hand – not a drop and not one word of thanks from the millions of tourists in the city. I should have gotten a medal.
I didn’t have much of an agenda so I just wandered took in modern Barcelona and I have to say while the buildings are individually nicely designed as a group make a pretty sterile part of the city. Nice boulevards with brand new trams but the place seems overscaled and empty. I stumbled into a park with an elaborate stainless steel tube sculpture threaded through the place.

Sterile Park

Again sterile and empty. Clean, with a big staff weeding and raking. Terrible art – again generic and empty.

This led me to the beach that was pretty empty because of the weather but still a great beach with countless cafes and restaurants. Walked back to my room along the water and had lunch along the way.

Pretty Lunch

After a rest I tried a restaurant my landlord suggested and had an incredible salad and a crispy fish taco.

Fermented Papaya salad.

Both were scrumptious. On the walk home I stopped to listed to opera arias sung by street musician. She was so good everyoneone even those not stopping to listen were respectful and quiet while she sand and gave here enthusiastic applause after every piece. There was a lot of coins in her hat. Well deserved.

Friday
Got up early and after a long coffee in front of the Barcelona Cathedral I took the subway and connected to a funicular up the mountain to the Miro Museum designed by Louis Sert who also did a lot of work in Boston. This building was certainly one of his best and completely devoted to work by Miro who I have to say; no matter how hard I try is just NOT my cup of tea. I did respond more to his sculpture which are given plenty of space in the building.

Miro and me

Most people just took photos of the works and so I’m assuming got even less from the experience than I did. Took the subway back to the edge of the old city and just wandered around vaguely aiming at my room. I stumbled upon the the Museum of Contemporary Art which is quite impressive but the exhibitions seemed so not me that I stayed outside and wandered some more.

Museum of Contemporary Art

Found a large courtyard filled with chairs tables and young people so I sat for a while and was inspired to draw a monumental staircase that spilled out into the space.

Monumental staircase

More wandering, coffee and drawing till I got back to my room and a rest. Only 8062 steps today. Dinner was as a bar suggest by my land lord which had good taps and and excellent beer.

Dinner and a beer

Saturday
Today was an official beach day so after a trip to an excellent sporting goods store where I bought a cheap backpack and some hiking boots that actually fit me – YEA! – I packed up and walked to the beach. Perfect weather and the whole city seemed to be there with me. Just walked and walked, stopped for lunch and walked backed enjoying the people (girl) watching and the sunshine. The marina is packed with boats some of which are gigantic. All registered in the Cayman Islands so it goes without saying that all the taxes were paid!

Huuuuge sailboat, Taxes all paid.

There was a piece of public art that I liked – a first.

Beach art

Lichtenstein

Moved to another B and B today. The last place was fine but there was construction going on day and night and I got sick of sleeping with earplugs. The new place is brighter and about 100 meters from my old place. Same neighborhood, very old, but for the life of me I can’t ever seem to get my bearings! Without Google maps I’d be still be walking in circles. Even with the App I take the wrong direction virtually 100% of the time. Good thing I’m not in a hurry.

Did a load of laundry and then went for breakfast trying to guess where I should go after Barcelona. I’m guessing south to Valencia. It’s an easy train ride with lots of interesting architecture and beaches. Still haven’t ventured to the water.
After Breakfast I walked over to the Palau Güell, ANOTHER, Gaudi masterpiece.

Palau Guell, One of Gaudi’ earliest commissions.

Commissioned by the family that commissioned the park I visited yesterday. It’s a palace but on a plot of only 500 sq. meters. But oh what a nice use of space. The detailing is magnificent with a great central hall that is about three time higher than it is wide that includes a built in chapel that sit behind some large doors so the room can be used for multiple purposes including concerts.

The Great Central Hall looking toward the chapel

The Great Central Hall looking from the Chapel.

It has a built in organ that at one time had the tallest pipes in the world. Just as I entered the hall the organ began to play I couldn’t see a musician but the guard assured me that the organ was playing and it wasn’t a recording. I recorded some but can’t figure out how to upload it to this blog. Gaudi uses wrought iron, stone, and wood like no one else and, with a virtually unlimited budget, put all these materials to very good use. What a mind!

Look at that ceiling

The roof has more of the chimney tops like I saw on La Pedrera.

Can’t believe this place is real. Feels like fairy land.

You can’t even see these from the street. Mostly for the family and for God.

One of twelve chimneys on the roof of the Palau Güell.

Everything has been restored to pristine condition. For once I visit a place that is NOT wrapped in scaffolding and closed until 2020 for refurbishment! Last year half of what I wanted to see in Berlin was closed. This year I get my reward.
After a few hours in the palace I wandered over to the Mercator de la Boqueria which was not a jammed as it was last Sunday. I spent lots of time admiring the meat: Rib roasts: 75 Euros/KG and Serrano Ham at 200 Euros/KG.

Late Lunch at the Mercator de la Boqueria.

Grilled seafood at the counter. The baby squid were the best.

Found a seafood counter that had a stool open up just as I walked by; so how could I say no? Had a plate of mixed grill and a beer. And then a coffee in the Placa Reial. What a nice day.

Got up very late Sunday. I checked my phone and I had walked over 20,000 steps so I guess I needed the sleep. Got up and just walked around exploring. Made my way to the Palau Güell only to find that while admission is free on Sunday all the tickets were gone until 4pm.

Palau Guell, One of Gaudi’ earliest commissions.

Took some photos and then went on my way up and down La Rhamba a tree lined walking street that uses to be a stream outside of the city walls. Zillions of tourists and trinket sellers made it a little difficult to walk but the space is so beautiful that its still a wonderful experience. The perfect weather helped. I eventually found myself at the Place Reial a gorgeous space surround by stately building and cafes on all sides. I settled in for a coffee and sketching and managed to while away the afternoon.

Fountain in Place Reial.

After that I ended up in front of a cathedral that had been heavily damaged during the civil war but had a nice bench that face the front entry and a bunch of food stalls. More sketching, and a nice young woman from Peru struck up a conversation with me when she noticed my drawing. She turned out to be an architect albeit an unemployed having a late lunch before going to work in a clothing store. She kept me entertained as I drew. She went to work and I went into the cathedral – not much after Segreda Familia. Still it had a nicely restored rose window – completely burned out in 1936. Enjoyed the quiet monumental space almost alone. returned back to my room to lay down before going out to look for dinner.

Monday was another Gaudi day. I got up early and with ticket in phone headed to Parc Guell and after 45 minutes on a bus was deposited at the top of a hill with no entry insight. I found someone to ask directions and was pointed to a long set of steps which, I was told, I would find the entry to the park attractions. They were right and even tho it was only 8:30 am the place was already filling up. The entry deposited me onto a terrace with the famous serpentine ceramic shard coated wall/benches.

Serpentine wall with Gaudi’s Building behind. Barcelona below that.

The whole thing overlooked the Gaudi buildings that flanked the front entry to the park. Behind them was a breathtaking view of the entire city of Barcelona and the sea behind it. I took my requisite photos and them made my way down to a colonnade of 80 Doric inspired columns that supported part of the space I had just been walking through. They were part of a drainage system that channeled the water into a cistern below and formed a space that originally was supposed to be a market for the housing development that the original park was supposed to be. It never succeeded and was taken over by the city in 1925 and turned into a public park.

Columns supporting the space I entered on.

Gaudi designed a few structures at the entry and lived in another until his death. the entire complex is now a world heritage site.

As usual I had planned to spend a couple of hours but ended up staying unto two. Kept wanting to leave but kept coming back and even did a drawing inspired by the example of a young woman I met who was watercoloring.

Serpent on the steps.

Serpent

Another serpent.

Entry building

I finally found something to buy! In the gift shop they had brass castings of some of the cupboard door pulls from La Predrera building I had admired on Saturday. I ordered two on line and will install them in my kitchen when I return. Can’t wait to touch them everyday!

Small cupboard pull from La Predrera. Cast from the originals which were cast from the impression of a hand in soft clay.

Building on the right now housing the gift shop.

Made my way back to my room and a lay down until dinner. Went back to the tapas place I went to on my first night and had a great meal sticking up a conversation with a nice student from Ukraine. Good food, good conversation.

Spent the morning with a very nice couple from Bulgaria, Pavlin and Irina, first stopping at the Barcelona cathedral with the hopes of hearing organ music with morning mass. Unfortunately they don’t have mass on Saturday mornings. We did enjoy the walk to the cathedral picking up coffee and pastries along the way. From there we went to an amazing market just off the La Rambla – Mercator de la Boqueria. The displays of food were amazing especially the fish. It was so crowded that I forgot to take photos while supplies of sun dried tomatoes, pepper corns, and chile peppers were procured to take home to Bulgaria. I satisfied myself with a paper cone of shave cured ham. Delish!! On the way back to our digs Pavlin tried on dozens of pairs of sunglasses and Irina shopped for clothes. I just enjoyed the warm sunshine and the shops.
Said our goodbyes and after some research in the guide book I’d spend some more time with Gaudi and walked to Casa Batilo a makeover of a building and then moved on to his masterwork La Pedrera (derisively named “the quarry” when it was built, now a term of affection)

Casa Batlio facade

More Casa Batlio with me.

Commissioned by a wealthy family as apartments for themselves with additional units to provide them income. Its undulating facade wraps around a corner with many windows and balcony railing made of scrap metal.

Facade of La Pedrera

Gaudi commissioned a sculptor to make these railings that decorate the facade like seaweed. The roof is crowned with sculptural forms most of which serve as air vents or chimneys.

Rooftop view of la Predera

Three of them are covered with shards of broken ceramics – Gaudi’s signature material. One can see his other masterpiece the Sagrada Familia out in the distance. I also noticed that Barcelona also has an office building very much like the Gherkin in London.
I paid a large entry fee and toured the roof, attic and an apartment.

I paid a large entry fee and toured the roof, attic and an apartment. I was a bit skeptical about $25.00 to get in but it turned out to be more than worth it.

Door handle cast from impression of hand in soft clay.

The forms on the roof along with the view were amazing and then the apartment was quite and experience seeing what wealthy family life was like at the beginning of the 20th century and seeing the detailing of the spaces by the architect. Subtle but gorgeous forms on the ceiling as well as plaster formed moldings around the doors and windows. Even the door handles and drawer pulls were designed by Gaudi and were cast bronze forms made from his hand gripping soft clay so that they fit a hand perfectly.

Railing detail

What a brilliant mind! Can’t wait to tour the Park Guell next week. Did more than 17,000 steps today so I’m a little tired but the city is just beautiful with stately boulevards lined with trees and cafes. Much like Paris. The city is pack with tourists but also the locals out in the streets on the picture perfect day.

View from owners apartment window.

Got up early and took the subway to Gaudi’s masterpiece cathedral La Sagrada Familia The most visited place in Spain. They say 3 million come annually. It felt like more today. Had a quick breakfast across the street and showed up at the front gate just before nine only to be told that all today’s tickets were sold out and to go on line and get one for tomorrow!! Oh well so much for no planning. Tried to do it on line until I saw a tourist information booth across the street staffed by beautiful young ladies with great smiles. I went to ask if I could book tickets and they told me maybe for 3 o’clock. But suddenly one of them notices a cancellation for 9:30! I took it with glee -it was 9:15. Went through the cattle stalls and up the steps to the landing at the entry to admire all the elaborate stone work vowing not to take photos but to spend time looking.

First of the selfies I swore I wouldn’t take!

After a while I entered and if the outside wasn’t spectacular enough the interior, bathed in veils of cool and warm light from the stained glass windows, took my breath away! Gaudi made the stone feel organic and the columns supporting the ceiling way above looked like tree trunks.

I quickly found a place to lean against so I didn’t get vertigo and just tried to take it all in. I’ve been in plenty of spectacular cathedrals, including Notre Dame last spring, but this one was the winner.

Breathtaking space, fabulous light from the stained glass windows.

After I had looked and looked I finally gave in and took some video and selfies. No matter which direction you looked it just begs you to take a picture.

I spent about 2 hours just walking around and finding places to sit and just look. There is not a bad spot in the place inside or out to pause, sit and look and take photos. I did plenty of all three. There were exhibits beneath the cathedral about the architect, the design and copious models large and small of the building. It’s still pretty much a construction site surround by fenced off areas, cranes and construction crews busy making lots of noise and presumably working towards a promised 2020-2025 completion date. They’ve been working since 1882 so I wouldn’t hold them to that date. Based on what I saw of the models its about 60% completed with the tallest tower barely started and yet what is done is spectacular. The earliest work done in Gaudi’s time is a little dark and weathered with dirt and grime. The newest work is pristine and looks as if it was completed yesterday. The place had quite a few people when I got in but as it approached noon it became so packed that in certain places it was very hard to move. I found places to sit an lean outside and enjoyed the views but eventually it got to be too much and I found an exit.

And this they said was NOT a busy day. 3 million people visit this cathedral each year.

I walked around the site and observed all sides eventually getting a coffee and a great table just inside in the shade. The people watch was also great including a bigger who kept greeting people with a great hello. Just then a woman walked up to him and gave him lunch from the McDonalds next door. He accepted but first offered to share it with those of us in the coffee shop. I declined but the whole moment was very sweet.

Quite different from the opposite facade.

I sat there and looked for at least another hour and even said a little drawing of a lizard that was one of many carved onto the facade of the church. Not much of a drawing but at least its a start!

Breakfast coffee at the Barcelona Cathedral plaza.

Began my first day with a cup of coffee in front of the Cathedral above. There was music included.

Music with my breakfast coffee.

I decided to look for the Picasso museum but alison the way after a four minute stroll I found myself in front of the Mercator de Santa Caterina.

It’s the roof that caught my eye!

Where I was seduced by the most beautiful displays of food and vegetables. I selected a tiny paper cone with a few small slices of serano ham and savored each morsel. It was 11:30 and all the restaurants in the Market were packed so I headed to the Museum another four minute stroll.

The museum which thankfully did not permit any photography was mostly early work which has never been my favorite but did show a masters hand at the ripe old age of 13!!

They did have 58 paintings Picasso did of his interpretation of La Melina’s by Velazquez that I will see in Madrid. All together in one space! I had seen them all in books but didn’t remember they were here in Barcelona. I almost started crying I was so excited by the exhibition.

Las Meninas Painting by Pablo Picasso.

There wa also a small temporary exhibition of portraits by him that were outstanding examples of his work especially those of Dora Marr and Jaqueline.

After three hours of art I went back to the market and had a gorgeous bowl of fish stew and a beer.

Fish stew in the Market

After a coffee outside I wandered back to the cathedral and went inside. Quite a good example of Gothic architecture and the.

Always wanted a halo.

Wandered the back streets behind the cathedral and stumbled upon some public art. Well its big, and I guess a great use of all those wire hangers you have cluttering up your closet.

That’s a lot of wire hangers!!!!

From there it was a short walk home and a lay down!

Left boston on time.