Today was devoted to food. I began walking to La Rhamba to have coffee, read the papers (all about Trump – what else?) smoke and watch people. La Rhamba wa once a small stream outside of the old city walls that was paved over and became the premiere walking street of the city. Today it is inundated with tourists and tourist junk but despite that it is still a great linear space and always filled with people. The cappuccino was overpriced but good and my chair had a cushion. And there was a never ending supply of passersby.
Breakfast on La Rhamba.
I never get bored watching the world go by and between The NY Times and the Boston Globe, both downloaded to my IPad, and the never ending stream of people walking by I sat, smoked, and was quite contented. BTW all you health nuts. Last year I smoked in Europe and didn’t have another cigarette after I stepped off the plane back in Boston. Here in Spain one is not considered a child molester if one enjoys tobacco outdoors at a cafe or restaurant. I have repeatedly offered to move when someone sat near enough to be bothered by my smoke and so far non have voiced any complaints at all. Cigs are $5 a pack here so I’m content to indulge my vice until I return home.
When I ran out of news to read and my rear became numb I decided to. Are my way to the Mercado de la Boqueria, the largest old food market in the city.
Cured meats.
I had already been here once but on a Sunday and it was jammed, today while still busy, was much less frenetic with quite a few of the stalls closed. There was still plenty to see with just about anything you can imagine to eat in a plethora of colors, shapes and varieties.
From the sea.
Lots of artfully arranged, fish and cured ham. Serano ham is the specialty of Catalonia and ranges in price from 60 – 250 euros a kilo. Well out of my price range, I could still indulge with little paper cones of the delicacy for sale at every stall selling the meat. they were priced from 2-6 euros and were a delight to eat as I toured the market. BTW its a lot like prosciutto tho it seems saltier. That and slices of chorizo were always in hand. 
The fish was the best and there were numerous counters selling cooked fish of all shapes and sizes. I managed to eat a one in this market and at another in market closer to my room. It’s quite a feat to get a seat during prime time.
Eatin’ at the counter.
Luckily I eat either unfashionably early or late so I’ve managed to squeeze in. The seafood is simply cooked and fabulous. Most of Asia has decamped to Spain this month and these tourists were indulging without restraint. Must have been very cheap for them especially the Japanese. I tried to do my part and keep up. I wandered and photographed making, so far, some of my best pictures of the trip.
Confections of all kinds.
It’s not difficult when the subject matter is so artfully arranged and colorful.
All kinds of hot spices.
Already cooked and ready to take away.
Dried fruit.
When I had my visual fill and purchased som candied nuts I made my way to: Jardins de Rubio I Llunch a paved garden surround by gothic arches and twin monumental stairways that were so exquisite that had to do my best to sketch them. Not once but on three separate occasions. I visited this place on three different days and drew each time. The space is surrounded by the Library of Catalonia, The institute of Catalan studies and what appears to be an art school because I see lots of kids with sketch pads doing the same as me but going in and out of the one of the buildings. There is a little cafe with a perfect view of one of the stairways and I managed to snag a table with the best view possible. One day for coffee and the second day for lunch.
Lunch: anchovies, tomato, mozzarella, and arugula salad.
The lunch was a fabulously presented tomato and mozzarella salad and a plate of sardines and olives chased down with a glass of beer. I sat for two hours eating, drawing, smoking and watching the students come and go. Oh I remember having days like they do just hanging out and passing the day away. Now I’ve finally got it again too. On my way out I passed by the library and went in for a look what a magnificent space.
The Library.
I thought it couldn’t get any better when just a few steps away I looked in on a gorgeous courtyard surrounded by two story covered arched galleries.
This group of building a spaces were my favorite in Barcelona.
It was just a short walk to the ultra modern Barcelona Contemporary Art Museum A blindingly white beautiful composition overlooking a large plaza that has been commandeered by the skateboard set and which you walk thru at the risk of being flattened by a kid with a backwards baseball cap speeding by or leaping up to skid across a flat bench.
Museum of Contemporary Art
Just how do they get the board to leap into the air with them? Against my better judgement I paid for an entry to the exhibitions which as I expected were awful. No art just political propaganda. Progressive politics, but never the less these people haven’t heard of the word metaphor or poetry. I mentioned this at the front desk on my way out and was gently informed that the mandate of the museum was political “art.” I asked if there was any non political contemporary art in the city and was informed that Barcelona was a city know for its politics and that included the art as well.
Slowly made it back to my room and when I asked Juan for a dinner suggestion he sent me to a a Bar called el Porto.
I had what he had.
It was a tiny space that served beer, wine, fried sardines and a fabulous tomato, onion, and olive salad. I had both plates and a beer standing at the bar with a mixture of old grizzly locals and wide eyed tourists like me unsure if they were supposed to be there. It was cheap and good.
What a day!!!!!!! 12,761 step but whose counting.
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