Got up very late Sunday. I checked my phone and I had walked over 20,000 steps so I guess I needed the sleep. Got up and just walked around exploring. Made my way to the Palau Güell only to find that while admission is free on Sunday all the tickets were gone until 4pm.
Palau Guell, One of Gaudi’ earliest commissions.
Took some photos and then went on my way up and down La Rhamba a tree lined walking street that uses to be a stream outside of the city walls. Zillions of tourists and trinket sellers made it a little difficult to walk but the space is so beautiful that its still a wonderful experience. The perfect weather helped. I eventually found myself at the Place Reial a gorgeous space surround by stately building and cafes on all sides. I settled in for a coffee and sketching and managed to while away the afternoon.
Fountain in Place Reial.
After that I ended up in front of a cathedral that had been heavily damaged during the civil war but had a nice bench that face the front entry and a bunch of food stalls. More sketching, and a nice young woman from Peru struck up a conversation with me when she noticed my drawing. She turned out to be an architect albeit an unemployed having a late lunch before going to work in a clothing store. She kept me entertained as I drew. She went to work and I went into the cathedral – not much after Segreda Familia. Still it had a nicely restored rose window – completely burned out in 1936. Enjoyed the quiet monumental space almost alone. returned back to my room to lay down before going out to look for dinner.
Monday was another Gaudi day. I got up early and with ticket in phone headed to Parc Guell and after 45 minutes on a bus was deposited at the top of a hill with no entry insight. I found someone to ask directions and was pointed to a long set of steps which, I was told, I would find the entry to the park attractions. They were right and even tho it was only 8:30 am the place was already filling up. The entry deposited me onto a terrace with the famous serpentine ceramic shard coated wall/benches.
Serpentine wall with Gaudi’s Building behind. Barcelona below that.
The whole thing overlooked the Gaudi buildings that flanked the front entry to the park. Behind them was a breathtaking view of the entire city of Barcelona and the sea behind it. I took my requisite photos and them made my way down to a colonnade of 80 Doric inspired columns that supported part of the space I had just been walking through. They were part of a drainage system that channeled the water into a cistern below and formed a space that originally was supposed to be a market for the housing development that the original park was supposed to be. It never succeeded and was taken over by the city in 1925 and turned into a public park.
Columns supporting the space I entered on.
Gaudi designed a few structures at the entry and lived in another until his death. the entire complex is now a world heritage site.
As usual I had planned to spend a couple of hours but ended up staying unto two. Kept wanting to leave but kept coming back and even did a drawing inspired by the example of a young woman I met who was watercoloring.
Serpent on the steps.
Serpent
Another serpent.
Entry building
I finally found something to buy! In the gift shop they had brass castings of some of the cupboard door pulls from La Predrera building I had admired on Saturday. I ordered two on line and will install them in my kitchen when I return. Can’t wait to touch them everyday!
Small cupboard pull from La Predrera. Cast from the originals which were cast from the impression of a hand in soft clay.
Building on the right now housing the gift shop.
Made my way back to my room and a lay down until dinner. Went back to the tapas place I went to on my first night and had a great meal sticking up a conversation with a nice student from Ukraine. Good food, good conversation.
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