Spent the morning with a very nice couple from Bulgaria, Pavlin and Irina, first stopping at the Barcelona cathedral with the hopes of hearing organ music with morning mass. Unfortunately they don’t have mass on Saturday mornings. We did enjoy the walk to the cathedral picking up coffee and pastries along the way. From there we went to an amazing market just off the La Rambla – Mercator de la Boqueria. The displays of food were amazing especially the fish. It was so crowded that I forgot to take photos while supplies of sun dried tomatoes, pepper corns, and chile peppers were procured to take home to Bulgaria. I satisfied myself with a paper cone of shave cured ham. Delish!! On the way back to our digs Pavlin tried on dozens of pairs of sunglasses and Irina shopped for clothes. I just enjoyed the warm sunshine and the shops.
Said our goodbyes and after some research in the guide book I’d spend some more time with Gaudi and walked to Casa Batilo a makeover of a building and then moved on to his masterwork La Pedrera (derisively named “the quarry” when it was built, now a term of affection)
Commissioned by a wealthy family as apartments for themselves with additional units to provide them income. Its undulating facade wraps around a corner with many windows and balcony railing made of scrap metal.
Gaudi commissioned a sculptor to make these railings that decorate the facade like seaweed. The roof is crowned with sculptural forms most of which serve as air vents or chimneys.
Three of them are covered with shards of broken ceramics – Gaudi’s signature material. One can see his other masterpiece the Sagrada Familia out in the distance. I also noticed that Barcelona also has an office building very much like the Gherkin in London.
I paid a large entry fee and toured the roof, attic and an apartment.
I paid a large entry fee and toured the roof, attic and an apartment. I was a bit skeptical about $25.00 to get in but it turned out to be more than worth it.
The forms on the roof along with the view were amazing and then the apartment was quite and experience seeing what wealthy family life was like at the beginning of the 20th century and seeing the detailing of the spaces by the architect. Subtle but gorgeous forms on the ceiling as well as plaster formed moldings around the doors and windows. Even the door handles and drawer pulls were designed by Gaudi and were cast bronze forms made from his hand gripping soft clay so that they fit a hand perfectly.
What a brilliant mind! Can’t wait to tour the Park Guell next week. Did more than 17,000 steps today so I’m a little tired but the city is just beautiful with stately boulevards lined with trees and cafes. Much like Paris. The city is pack with tourists but also the locals out in the streets on the picture perfect day.
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