Took the train to Córdoba, left 1/2 hour late but this is not Germany. Took a cab through the most narrow winding streets I’ve ever experienced. I was sure the cabby was trying to run up his tab but the bill was only 5 Euros. He drove just like me, shaking his fist and cursing everyone who got in his way. A good entry to the town.
Narrow “Streets”
My room was a little difficult to find, round the back off a little courtyard. Maria, who spoke no English greater me warmly and showed me to my room. Everything VERY modern and spotlessly clean. Northern Europe had nothing on her housecleaning. Her son Jesus arrived shortly and gave me a tour of the house and answered all my questions. he marked up a map with what I should see and gave me excellent suggestions as to what and where I should eat. Got settled and went for a walk immediately found myself in Plaza de la Corredera, elegant, and without the swarms of tourists I had to dodge in Madrid.
Plaza de la Corredera
I passed through and made my way through the winding street to a lovely park where I settled onto a bench in the shade and sketched a charming fountain. More strolling found me in the town center with the most elegant buildings including the Hotel Boston, I stopped for a cappuccino that was more of a confection that arrived with whipped cream topping and a rolled cookie on top. In addition unrequested but much appreciated was a free tall glass of ice water – with ice! This was a first. The first I’ve ever gotten in all of Europe, ever! I then had lunch at a place Jesus recommended as his favorite. It was an old tavern that specialized in local specialties. I got the Salmorejo.
Salmorejo
It’s a pure of tomatoes, green pepper, a small amount of bread and spices. It’s garnished with egg and Serrano ham. Outstanding and I practically licked the bowl. On top of that the service was friendly – the opposite of what I got in Madrid. Spain redeemed – Viva Espana! Went for a rest after some more walking and then late, almost 9:00, Scoped out a bustling place near the Marquita cathealdral that I was going to visit first thing the next day. But I was also transfixed by the light on the old stone bridge that was directly across from the Cathedral and shot a few photos that of course just don’t do it justice.
Evening light.
Dinner and dinner service was fabulous. I had “Jewish food” or so marked on the menu.I was eating in the old Jewish quarter after all. Including: a warm salad of rolled chard, chick peas decorated with ribbons of humus. Excellent. It was followed by lamb chunks and cous, cous flavored lightly with honey, raisins and spices also fabulous and my waiter Alfonso could not have been more helpful and friendly. I didn’t finish unto past eleven. I walked home only to find that the gate to the courtyard was closed and I had no way to open it. I walked all the way around to the other side of the courtyard – quite a walk – only to find the same thing. I sort of panicked and emailed Jesus hoping he was still awake. As I waited a kid road his bike up gave me a weird look and proceeded to pull on the gate which opened freely. I had been pushing. I burst out laughing which got me an even weirder look. And with a sigh of relief I emailed Jesus to apologize and went to my room. Great day!
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