Spent the last day in Barcelona just wandering and a return visit to La Segrada Familia. This time I went in the later afternoon sacrificing smaller crowds for late afternoon light thri the stained glass windows. The place is so impressive that nothing interferes with its wonder and enjoyment. I walked from my room in the old city taking a meandering path as my entry time wasn’t until 2:00. For the most part the newer part of the city is large straight boulevards with big buildings but thankfully my path did not take me through the newest part of the city. Most of the buildings were late 19th or early 20th century with occasional facades that exhibit influences by Gaudi.
Even tho I had been before, coming around the corner and seeing the church again was every bit as impressive as the first time I saw it last week. I slowly made my way around the block that it filled stopping for coffee and long sits where ever I could find a place just to gaze at the various sides of the building. I also enjoyed watching the tourist have their photos taken posing in front of each side. I was amazed how many people were siting with their backs to the view – I guess they already had their pictures and didn’t need to waste and more time observing.
When I got in the light was every bit as glorious as was the the space itself. And, even tho I was just there last week, coming into the space still took my breath away. the light was still pretty much straight overhead so the full effect of the later afternoon slant projecting through the stained glass was yet to come. I wandered around and even managed to discover a chapel that I had missed on my first visit. it was quite new with lots of glass and if I’m not mistaken built of manufactured stone and wood. To me, while the space was lovely, felt like cheating and since most of the original drawings by Gaudi were burnt during the civil war I’m not sure how much of this part was truely his creation or merely inspired by him. Not to quibble it was still very impressive.
As the light progressed the warmth of the the red and orange colored windows in the main space positively made everything glow. Aparantly th stained glass artist commissioned to do all the windows had been and continues to work on them since the beginning of the 21st century almost 20 years. He is not done and it looks like a lifetime sinecure as there is still much to do.
Spent about 3 hours inside and then more on the grounds before tiring of the crowds and making my exit. Still it was had to leave and I spent more time in the park across the street just looking at the facade and trying not to be too distracted by the crowds. Still sometimes its nice to be distracted.
Walked back and after a rest had my last dinner in Barcelona at an Argintinian restaurant my host recommended.
Wednesday, May 17, Arrive Valencia.
After a 4 hour train ride with a car full of loud cell phone talkers I arrived in Valencia and walked to my B and B. Had a hell of a time finding the front door but eventually I found it and met my host Jan – originally from Germany – but living in Valencia for 30 years. The apartment was filled with original art some of even nice and I got a pleasant room with a desk. Chatted with Jan and got a suggestion to go to a roof top terrace for lunch.
Had a great salad, a pretty waitress and a wonderful view that inspired me to take out my sketch pad. I wandered around and found myself at the contemporary art museum. Gorgeous building, forgettable exhibitions. Then, after a bit of strolling about and and viewing some of the most Baroque facades I ever seen I went back to my room and made it an early evening.
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