Now I thought that Napoleon was entombed at the pantheon -above- but after standing in line and paying the entry fee I was disappointed to find that no that is not his last resting place. I did get to see other crypts housing Alexander Dumas and Voltaire so it wasn’t a total loss. I guess it is good to read the guide book. Still I probably wouldn’t have gone if I new what it cost and who was there. Had a nice lunch nearby of Moules et Frits and sat and watched the people go by. I could very easily get used to the French lifestyle which seems to include many hours sitting and drinking and enjoying the world marching by.
A subway station that accomidates two level cars
On my metro travels I went through the station above that was designed to accomodate double decker subway cars.
With Brian gone I’m back on my own and was off to the Rodin Museum. In a lovely villa surrounded by a wall in a quiet area of the city. I had been here 40 years ago and had only vague recollections of the place and the art. Had to cross the flooded Seine to get there. It’s still very impressive to see so much water going by so fast. The Parisians are not immune from the fascinations of the water. Wherever I go I see people watching and taking photos.
The flooding Seine.
Flooding Seine. Seven meters above normal!
The museum is in a villa surrounded by a wall and included a large Arden fill with his work. I had coffee in the garden cafe during a break from the art. It’s still gray and damp but at least not raining.
Another gray day. And despite my mother’s fears that the flooding Seine would put our lives in danger we made our way to the Gare D’Orsay Museum without having to swim. The river is 7 meters above normal but still far from overflowing its banks.
Yet another museum filled with masterpieces. Highlights were the many Degas and Manet. An entire room of Toulouse-Lautre! It’s very hard to take it all in and you want to study each piece. Finally you must do triage and only spend time with favorites. It was great fun to see in the flesh so many works that I use in my classes. While the museum was busy it’s so large that the croutes are not overwhelming. The building used to be a train station and it was converted into a museum in the 80’s so the style is post modern but not so much that it looks dated like the Pompidou. The gian clocks that still tell time seen from the inside are so impressive and really make you fell small. Its great to see the minute hand move.
Roof of the the D’orsay. Overlooking the flooding Seine.
The view of the flooding seine below with the city in the background was almost as impressive as the art and a wonderful respite from the art.
Floor Scrapers by Caiblebutle
One of my favorites was the painting above. The luminosity of the light on the floor was just breathtaking. Another was the single asparagus below given to Charles Ephrussi after he purchased a painting of a bundle of asparagus for 1000 francs. Manet had only asked for 600 francs and sent this gift to Charles with a note saying one of the asparagus stalks had slipped from the bundle. I had read this anecdote in the book the Hare with the Amber Eyes last summer. After relishing that book seeing the actual painting was just so exciting. I’m so glad it’s not locked away in some private collection.
A single asparagus by Manet.
Restaurant at the D’orsay.
The restaurant dominated by one of the clocks was decorated beautifully and provided a nice place to meet Brian, quite by accident, for a coffee break. I am addicted to double espressos which seem to have little effect on me other than for their delicious flavor. The first sip or two is transformative. Notice in the video belove the back mirrored wall of restaurant. The people and events reflected are so much like the impressionist art we had just looked at. That and the backs of the chairs, like the dabs of color from a Monet. My hat is off to the designer who did this room.
Brian wanted to seen contemporary art but the place we headed was closed until 2pm. We took the metro over to the left back to the modern art museum. A huge edifice with great spaces but most of the art was less than stellar. The one thing I really wanted to see was the Boltansky room which was closed for renovation. Once again they heard I was coming. From the terrace of the restaurant there was a great view of the the seance and we found ourselves right across the river from the Eiffel Tower. The top was still shrouded in clouds but it was surreal to finally be in its presence. We walked down the hill to the river and crosse de over to go up to it. Mobbed, of course, even with the terrible weather but this is one thing that lives up to its hype. So terribly impressive and the design is just stunning. The scale even in this day and age is staggering. I can’t imagine what it felt like to the average person long before flight or sky scrapers.
Can finally see the top.
The ball hanging in the middle is a promotion for soccer. The base was filled with tourists standing in line waiting to go up even with the top shrouded in fog. Lots of hucksters selling trinkets and hustling money. All of this could not take away from the experience of being so close to a world icon.
Spent the morning at the Picasso Museum. It didn’t exist the last time I was in Paris. There was a focus on sculpture but there were still planting of paintings and works on paper. There was a wonderful wall of 24 etchings that were based on a painting of Lucas Cranch. It was fascinating to to see all the variations on the figures and faces while he still kept the basic composition. There was so much detail it was really overwhelming. Just to closely look at one of the pieces was exhausting. Here again constant, photo taking by the mobs and no one stopping to look for even a second. The smart phone/camera is a curse to art.
At the Picasso Museum.
I felt guilty having Brian take my photo but I just had to have a souvenir of my visit.
Luxembourg Gardens.
Walked over to the Luxembourg gardens before heading back.
Recycling. All wine bottles.
Very rare lamb with mushrooms and vegetables.
Again it was raining and we were both exhausted from the exhibits so we went to our respective abodes to nap and plan dinner. When I checked my Email I found a dinner suggestion from Kamal and Brinda from home. We managed to get a reservation. It was a little wine bar with outstanding food: Juveniles, 47, Rue de Richelieu – 75001, Paris. Just a ten minute walk away from out places. The food was wonderful and the wines, at their suggestions, were excellent. What a find!
Another gray day. And despite my mother’s fears that the flooding Seine would put our lives in danger we made our way to the Gare D’Orsay Museum without having to swim. The river is 7 meters above normal but still far from overflowing its banks.
Yet another museum filled with masterpieces. Highlights were the many Degas and Manet. An entire room of Toulouse-Lautre! It’s very hard to take it all in and you want to study each piece. Finally you must do triage and only spend time with favorites. It was great fun to see in the flesh so many works that I use in my classes. While the museum was busy it’s so large that the croutes are not overwhelming. The building used to be a train station and it was converted into a museum in the 80’s so the style is post modern but not so much that it looks dated like the Pompidou. The gian clocks that still tell time seen from the inside are so impressive and really make you fell small. Its great to see the minute hand move.
Roof of the the D’orsay. Overlooking the flooding Seine.
The view of the flooding seine below with the city in the background was almost as impressive as the art and a wonderful respite from the art.
Floor Scrapers by Caiblebutle
One of my favorites was the painting above. The luminosity of the light on the floor was just breathtaking. Another was the single asparagus below given to Charles Ephrussi after he purchased a painting of a bundle of asparagus for 1000 francs. Manet had only asked for 600 francs and sent this gift to Charles with a note saying one of the asparagus stalks had slipped from the bundle. I had read this anecdote in the book the Hare with the Amber Eyes last summer. After relishing that book seeing the actual painting was just so exciting. I’m so glad it’s not locked away in some private collection.
A single asparagus by Manet.
The restaurant dominated by one of the clocks was decorated beautifully and provided a nice place to meet Brian, quite by accident, for a coffee break. I am addicted to double espressos which seem to have little effect on me other than for their delicious flavor. The first sip or two is transformative. Notice in the video belove the back mirrored wall of restaurant. The people and events reflected are so much like the impressionist art we had just looked at. That and the backs of the chairs, like the dabs of color from a Monet. My hat is off to the designer who did this room.
The D’orsay was filled with just too many masterpieces. Even with coffee breaks it was still to much to take in. It was good I had bought tickets online as we could jump a pretty hefty line. It was also good we saw it today as they closed it for two days after because of precautions taken for the flooding Seine across the street.
Restaurant at the D’orsay.
The building is a repurposed train station and the architects did an excellent job. Much nicer than the Pompidou. The crowds are really getting on my nerves. Some of the greatest art on the planet and all people are doing is taking photos. The artificial shutter snap sound never stops. Brian followed around a woman who was obsessively photographing every work. She never stopped, even for a second, to look at the paintings. She was the rule rather than the exception.
The mirrors against the back walls make an impressionist image of the room.
Luxembourg Gardens.
Pit stop somewhere in Paris – out of the rain.
Dinner with Brian at the restaurant Jennifer suggested.
Statue of Montaigne across the street from the Sorbonne.
The Pompidou museum, the ugliest building in Paris.
Spent my first full day in Paris at the Pompidou Museum. Has to be the ugliest building I’ve ever seen. The inside isn’t much better. The art is pretty good however. Some great Matisses including the “The blue interior with goldfish.” A treat to see some excellent Giacomettis. I’m stunned to watch the vast majority of visitors walk up or just past the great works snap a photo and walk off. They don’t even pause to look. Being in the presence of some of the greatest art in the world and all they take away is a poorly exposed photo they’ll never look at again or maybe bore their friends with on Facebook.
Many seem obsessed with documenting every work just as fast as they can. God help their friend who are forced to look at these photos.
10 foot Giacometti! It wobbled when people walked by.
Fabulous bust of Diego in the Pompidou museum.
Palace of Justice behind me. Right near Notre Dame.
No I don’t know who that guy is behind me. After listening to the bells I went inside and sat down for part of a Sunday service. The seating was packed and this is a big place. The tourists circled on the periphery mindlessly shooting photos in this very sacred space. There was an excellent set of diagrams, set up behind the alter, that document the process of building the place which began in the 1100’s. Constant improvements and changes continued thru the 19th century when they installed an organ.
Spent the moring sitting on the bacony with Michael and another guest talking about the city and politics. She was from Berlin but French and working as a journalist. The sunshine, coffee, conversation and cigarettes made the time go away and I headed to the station on the tram.
Outside the back of the central train station. Just try and cross to the water on your right and the bikes will run you down. The problem is you can’t hear them coming like a car. Tho there are a lots of electric vehicles in Amsterdam and I even saw two taxies that were Teslas.
I did manage to get across and back and this is my last photo of Amsterdam.
Went for a walk after I got settled and found that I am truely right in the middle of things. Ten minute walk to the Pompidou, ten minutes another way to Notre Dame. Five minutes walk another direction on a walking street was the new Forum de Halles.
Forum de Halles.
Much more impressive if you are under this structure. It covers a large hole that is filled with the same shops at home. There is a need to fill: I’ve yet to see a Taco Bell. On the extreme left is a giant Lego store. But the building is very compelling and fill with people. It was built on the site of the old public food market that I will try to find in its new location before I go.
My room space , one room with a bath behind the door and minute balcony on the left.
My place is right next to a walking street filled with great people watching, restaurants and shops.
First dinner in Paris: roast lamb, potatoes, and salad.
When you eat alone you do tend to focus on the food.!
All I know about art I learned from a Banksy exhibit in Amsterdam.
Spent my last full day seeing yet another museum and walking around the city. The SOMO museum was having a Banksy/Warhol exhibit. I didnt know that Banksy did studio work but everything was framed and on paper-limited edition prints except for this bust. Fun show and not too exhausting.
The two most important consumer destinations conveniently located next to each other.
Spent a great deal of time just sitting in cafes today because it was sunny and warm. Just about the first warm day since Berlin. The seating was packed everywhere and the city is swarming with tourists.
I did one last tourist thing and walked to the old Shipping building built at the beginning of the twentieth century a literally a work of art as well as an office building. It’s now fully restored and a 4 star hotel. Everything about it inside and out is designed and detailed to the max. Down to the door handles. Every clock in the building is one of a kind. The building was profiled in a show at the Stedelijk museum which is where I learned about it.
Ironwork around the Shipping building.
Above the front door of the Shipping building.
More details
Me in Dam square. This is where I spent a lot of time the last time I was here. Mobbed with people and the kids are still sitting around waiting for something to happen that never does. The bike and pedestrian traffic around the square is so intense that they have cops holding back the mobs so the traffic and trams can get through. Almost impailed by a Japanese tourist with the ubiquitous selfie stick. I think you need one with your visa when leaving Japan. (I do know that’s racist) But true!!!!
Originally cloistered housing for nuns.
Don’t remember if I yet posted this panorama which I learned right after was not proper to shoot. The development is now rented out exclusively to women – not nuns – who open the gates to the public for limited times and ask that there be no photography. I truely missed the sign. If you look on the staircase on the left someone is sitting outside in the sun. Apparently the whole area was very run down but the city stepped in and restored it all. You expect little boys in wooden shoes to walk by.
One last canal scene in Amsterdam.
AMSTERDAM, what a great place! So sorry to leave tomorrow.
BTW they say that the canals are three meters deep. One meter of water, one of mud, and one of bicycles.
Ttoday began with the Steljidk Museum or fondly referred to at the bathtub. This is all contemporary art. Some was fun like the piece above which was meant to make you feel out of control as you watched a video monitor above your head with news clips of terrible events. Mostly it was just fun.
The Stedelijk Museum AKA “the bathtub”
That’s the Van Gogh museum in the background with a Richard Serra appearing, but not, holding up the Stedelijk.
Finally got a selfie with a Van Gogh. This in the Stedelijk. No photos allowed in the Van Gogh museum – Thank God!
Above was taken in the Stedelijk Museum. It was allowed to take photos but I made sure no one saw me shooting this.
Above is another gorgeous part of the the city taken from the Canal boat ride. The bottom part of the tower was part of the original defenses of the city. When Amsterdam out grew these walls they added the decorative top to the tower.
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